Drayy

Aqui va un ejemplo de centralita con el map-sensor interior !



NO PAIN NO GAIN

BURNETT

SSGTi. O quién sepa. Darme una solución. <img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle>

talonsport

ACA TENES UN DIAGRAMA DE UN BOOST CONTROLLER PARA HACER EN CASA

Electronic Engine Performance Controller
TPS-Based WCV Controller With Quick Pressure Release


This circuit is one of several designs based on the Electronic Engine Performance Controller concept. It is important to read the Basic Design page first, or you will probably have trouble understanding some of the terms I am using. Be sure to read the entire contents of these pages.


Description
This circuit is a three or four stage wastegate control valve (WCV) controller with quick pressure release, although not all three bleed controllers have to be implemented. Four solenoids are required if all four stages are to be implemented (3 for the boost stages and 1 for the quick pressure release). The quick pressure release feature eliminates the need for a small bleed on the pop-off valve, which causes the wastegate to close immediately.
This design uses all four comparators in the LM339. Three of them are configured as positive response circuits, which are used as the TPS stages. The forth is a negative response circuit, which is used for the quick pressure release solenoid. Here is what the schematic looks like:


Theory Of Operation
The way the comparators work has already been discussed, but here I will explain why the various compnents are there:
R1 - R4: These are the reference voltage adjustments.
R5, D1: These provide the 5.1V reference voltage. A 270 ohm R5 provides about 11mA of current, which is more than enough for 4 comparator references. If your circuit has many more comparators or uses different pots (R1-R4), you may need to drop the value of R5 to increase the supply current, but each comparator and reference (if 47k pots are used) only requires about 0.4mA of current.
R7 - R10: These are in place to limit the input current to the comparator so that some feedback can be provided for hysteresis
R11 - R14: These are the feedback resistors that provide hysteresis to each comparator to prevent oscillation when the input voltage is very close to the reference voltage. With R7-R10 set to 10k and R11-R14 set to 1M, the total hysteresis is about 81.2mV (0.0812V), which is small enough to still provide very good response. If your input signal is noisey and the comparator oscillates, you can decrease value of the feedback resistor to increase the hysteresis voltage.
R15 - R16: These are used in conjunction with D2-D5 as input signal protection.
R17 - R20: These are used to limit the base current of the driver transistors. If you are using a different transistor other than TIP120, then you may need to adjust the values of these.
C1: This is a filter capacitor that is used to keep the LM339 chip from oscillating due to noise on the power supply. Each LM339 chip has to have its own filter capacitor and it should be put very close to the Vcc pin (pin 3).
C2, C3: These are used to assist the 7808 regulator is maintaining a very stable output voltage. C2 suppresses high frequency noise while C3 acts as a reserve current source for improved regulator transient response.
D2 - D5: These are used in conjunction with R15-R16 to prevent the input signal voltage from going below ground or above Vcc.
D6 - D9: These are used to suppress the lash-back current from the solenoids.
Q1 - Q4: These are the driver transistors for the solenoids. They are NPN-type and are setup in an open-collector configuration. When a comparator turns a solenoid on, the output (collector) of the transistor provides ground to the solenoid.
U1a - U1d: These are the comparators within the LM339 chip.
U2: This is the 8V regulator, a 7808 is recommended. For power supply alternatives, see the EEPC: Basic Design page.


Parts
You will need to decide what kind of project cases, wire, and connectors to use, depending on which setup you choose. I have designed these circuits so that the part can be purchased at your local Radio Shack, but I recommend purchasing them through another dealer, such as Mouser or Digikey for better prices. Use the industry part numbers or descriptions when ordering from one of these other suppliers. The Radio Shack catalog part numbers have also been provided, if you choose to go that route. Keep in mind the Radio Shack tends to package their parts in fixed quantities, so you will end up with extra parts. The number of packages you need depends on the quanity inside, so keep track of this. Also, if you modified the design at all, this list will not be correct (obviously).

Testing
Before calibrating the circuit, you should test out the power supplies, inputs, and outputs. This is only possible if you installed a socket for the LM339 chip (U1).
With the LM339 chip removed from the socket, connect the circuit 12V and ground connections to a 12VDC power source.
Using a voltmeter, test the output of your 8V regulator. If you used a 7808, it should be very close to 8.0V. If you used the zener method, it should be close to 8.2V.
Test the output of your 5V reference voltage. It should be close to 5.1V.
Put the positive lead of your voltmeter to pin 3 of the socket and the negative lead to pin 12 of the socket. You should measure 8V.
Test the reference outputs by measuring the voltage at pins 4, 6, 8, and 10 of the U1 socket. You should be able to vary them between about 0V to about 5V by turning their respective trim pots.
Test the inputs by putting a 0 - 8 test voltage on each input connection. When the test voltage is on the TPS input, you should be able to detect it at pins 5, 7, and 9 of the U1 socket. When it is on the MAP sensor input, you should be able to detect it at pin 11 of the U1 socket.
Connect a 12V test device on one of the circuit outputs. A relay, solenoid, or low-current 12V lamp will work. Connect 12V to one side of the device and the output of the circuit to the other side.
Test the output transistor by applying 8VDC to the respective output pin (2, 1, 14, or 15). The test device should activate.
If your circuit has passed all of these tests, then it is probably functioning properly. Disconnect the power to the circuit and install the LM339 chip in the socket (if you have one). Follow this procedure to test out the entire circuit:
Connect the circuit 12V and ground connections to a 12VDC power source.
Apply about a 2.5V test voltage to the TPS signal input connection.
Connect your output test device (a relay, solenoid, or low-current 12V lamp will work) to output 1 of the circuit.
Adjust the corresponding trim pot (R1, in this case) to change the reference voltage for that comparator. When the reference voltage id above the input test voltage, the output should be off. When it is below the test voltage, the output should be on.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 for each of the four outputs, remembering that you have to put the test voltage on the MAP sensor input for the 4th one.
If your circuit passed this test, then it is ready to calibrate!


mmmmmmm me parece que voy a empezar a interesarme mas en el tema.... tengo que explotar lo que seee!

talonsport

si queres SSGTI mira en este link que hablamos bastante de estos temas
http://www.importracer.com.ar/vb/sho...threadid=12720

ssgti

ta guapo, thanxxx





obartol@hotmail.com
MI WEB:
http://www.galeon.com/ssgti
SWIFT EVOLUTION TEAM:
http://www.set.metropolI2000.com

BURNETT

<img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle>

Muchas gracias Talonsport. <img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>

ALCOBENDAS

Cada dia vais 1 pokito mejor eh burnett.. jeje me alegro..

Talonsport te he mandado 1 mail esta tarde.. ya me diras algo..

BURNETT

up up

Que opinen las nuevas incorporaciones. jajaja

pittuning

yo no soy nuevo pero... up!!


Compro tapón de gasolina sparco o similar, barómetro de turbo presión/depresión 1-1,5 bares.

xr3i

Eso,vosotros empaparos bien de como subir la presion a 1 bar sin reprogramar la centralita,que ya estoy a punto de embarcarme en el proyecto XR3i EVOLUTION RS <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> y cuando mi carro este acabao ya os preguntare otra vez.De momento yo tomo nota de todo.¿¿¿Con 1 bar de presion se pondria en 180 cavallitos no???
Este post se merece un 10.

xr3i

Otra cosa,¿ke presion aguanta el t03?

Los débiles mueren,sólo los fuertes prevalecen y ninguno será perdonado.

xr3i

Que pasa que ya nadie contesta

Los débiles mueren,sólo los fuertes prevalecen y ninguno será perdonado.

BURNETT

Gracias por tu interés xr3i.

Con 1 bar de presión pasaría de los 132CV actuales a 170CV.

La Garrett T03 está diseñada para trabajar perfectamente soplando hasta una presión de 21 psi (1"5 bar).

Si tenemos la suerte Pittuning y yo de pasar de 1 bar quiero recordar que nos haría falta cambiar la junta de culata por una de cobre. Pero aún así creo que no nos haría falta reforzar nada. jejeje

... bueno, los frenos <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

pittuning

yo con los 170cv me conformo, la junta de cobre es una posibilidad a tener en cuenta cuando deba cambiarla,son muchos €€€, pero de momento nada.


Burnett tu turbo como nada ya funciona como deberia?

pq le quieres meter una turbina híbrida, de acuerdo que te da una potencia más lineal en altas sobretodo, pero no te es mucho más facil subir la presión del t3 actual.
Ya sabes la manera para subirlo sin que entre en modo de fallos la centralita y sin reprogramar?



Compro tapón de gasolina sparco o similar, barómetro de turbo presión/depresión 1-1,5 bares.

BURNETT

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>la junta de cobre es una posibilidad a tener en cuenta cuando deba cambiarla,son muchos €€€ <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=1 id=quote>
Una junta de cobre cuesta unos 90 euros.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Burnett tu turbo como anda ya funciona como deberia? <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=1 id=quote>
Que va. Sigue DEAD (eso creo). Para los que no lo saben hace tiempo que el turbo no sopla nada, he de desmontarlo para ver que le pasa.
Gripado no está y tampoco escupe aceite hacia la admisión. He de ver si tiene juego, o si tiene la junta rota o algo de lo que nunca se ha hablado aquí, que se haya fastidiado la palomita de la wastegate y me esté entrando en by-pass perpetuo en el escape.
Sacaré fotitos del despiece del Garrett T3. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>pq le quieres meter una turbina híbrida, de acuerdo que te da una potencia más lineal en altas sobretodo, pero no te es mucho más facil subir la presión del t3 actual.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana" size=1 id=quote>
Claro que lo más fácil sería subir la presión del T3 actual. Sería lo más barato.
Pero ya te lo dije por el Messenger: como creo que lo más seguro es que tenga fastidiado el turbo, entonces tendré que cambiarlo. Aquí en España un turbo cuesta 300 o 350 euros, y no nuevo sino de esos reparados y revisados. Por el mismo precio el amigo Talonsport <img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle> me consigue uno nuevo y más grande. Ya me las apañaré para adaptarlo. Simplemente aprovecho el cambio.

Y porqué quiero una turbina híbrida:
Yo quiero mantener la misma inercia que tiene el turbo actual. Así que he de mantener la misma caracola de escape.
Pero, veo que cuanto todo el mundo aquí sube la presión del turbo no le queda una curba de par "cojonuda", sino que acaban con un grándisimo pico de par en su punto máximo (medios) y luego en altas el par se queda casi igual que antes. Yo encambio quiero pués como todo el mundo, que en altas el par no quede cuesta abajo. Quiero conseguir en la medida de lo posible que en altas me quede más tipo "meseta" en vez de "rampa".

Y eso se consigue (creo) con una compresora mayor. No por la presión que dé en quilos, porque la presión quizás la pondría igual e incluso menor que con la T3 actual. Se consigue gracias a que con una compresora mayor soplo a más caudal que antes (aún con la misma presión).

<i>Razonamientos extraidos de intercambio de opiniones con Talonsport.</i> <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

Se aceptan otras sugerencias. jajaja